Roots Café at Kōkua Kalihi Valley
There is a hidden gem in Kalihi at Roots Café. I’d heard about it but never managed to get there, since they are only open for lunch on Tuesday and Thursday, and I just don’t eat out for lunch that often. I made a point of going recently, after a friend explained that the café is part of the nutrition arm of KKV, Kōkua Kalihi Valley’s health center and community organization. I’m glad I did.
Roots Café works with many local farmers and other providers, mostly from Oʻahu, and uses local ingredients to make healthy and delicious meals. A lot comes from KKV’s Ho`oulu `Āina nature preserve, which is far back in the valley where they have a large parcel of land and raise veggies and run a number of culturally focused programs. KKV’s values are the embodiment of mālama ʻāina–caring for the land and for the community--and they come to life in the café each week. In addition to the meals offered, there is also a small market with local products: fresh produce, a freezer full of packaged cuts of meat, and fish supplied by a family of fishermen.
The meals are fresh, flavorful, and inexpensive. On a recent visit with another Slow Food member, we enjoyed delicious lunches packed with local ingredients like kalo and inamona, and the freshest green salads I’ve ever had in any restaurant.
One main dish was Macnut and Inamona Crusted Marlin, which featured four large, tender chunks of fish on a bed of yellow ʻōlena rice and roasted carrots. Both marlin and salad came with their own housemade dressings.
Our other option (there are usually just two each day, and they change depending on what is available from local sources) was Ground Veal with Cabbage using Mauka Meats veal, local cabbage, kalo, and purple daikon, again on a bed of rice. It was St. Patrick’s day and Chef Jesse told us he didn’t have time to make his own corned beef, so he did this dish to honor the saint. He also offered a vegan version, subbing Lion’s Mane mushrooms for the veal.
These meals were packed with flavor and portions were large enough for leftovers, enjoyed again for dinner. There are several dessert choices, and drinks, such as a Spiced Iced Cocoa, or a Citrus and Hibiscus Cooler, which was refreshing.
With plate lunches going for $15-$20 these days, these meals at just $11 and $12 each were a great bargain, and it felt good to be supporting such a fine organization.
We didn’t order dessert because we happened to be there when two Korean sisters were doing a demo of miyeokguk, Korean limu (wakame) soup. They explained that this soup is traditionally given to postpartum women for a month after childbirth. The samples, served with rice and daikon kimchee, were delicious (and a bit salty). You might have similar luck to find another food demo when you visit, but on its own, Roots does a great job with nutritious and delicious lunches.
As more folks came in for lunch we saw it was a diverse crowd. Some were KKV staff and others clearly from the neighborhood. Serving the community through growing and sharing food in culturally appropriate ways is at the heart of the KKV mission. The staff were pleasant and helpful; our orders were brought to our table when they were ready, not dished out of a steam tray.
Roots Café is located inside the KKV Health Center on School St., but start outside, a half-block down Ahonui Street at their Market stall. You order and pay there, either dine in or takeout, and you can shop the market while you wait for your meal to be made fresh.
“Good, clean, and fair,” Slow Food’s guiding principles are embodied here. Good healthy food, clean in supporting local farmers who are using Hawaiʻi’s resources wisely, and fair by working cooperatively with workers and consumers. That is KKV’s Roots Café and Market.
Roots Café: Open Tuesdays and Thursdays, 11:30 AM to 1:30 PM., 2229 N. School St., Honolulu, 808-791-9400, rootskalihi.com/roots-cafe-roots-kkv